Cambiare tasto accensione iphone 5 s

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Certo, non sono soluzioni molto comode ma, come si suol dire, a mali estremi, estremi rimedi! Prima di portare il tuo iPhone in un centro Apple vorresti sapere quanto dovrai spendere? Beh, dipende tutto dallo stato della garanzia. Per ricevere maggiori informazioni dai uno sguardo a questa pagina Internet dedicata. Se non hai assicurato il tuo device, puoi richiederne, a pagamento, la sostituzione con un terminale ricondizionato.

Purtroppo non prevede copertura contro i danni accidentali, come le cadute che possono causare il danneggiamento del tasto Power. Se hai bisogno di verificare la garanzia del tuo iPhone, segui le indicazioni contenute nel mio tutorial su come verificare garanzia iPhone. This should be in the guide.

The front panel is actually recessed a bit here making it much easier to get a tool in at this point. No way I would have opened it without this tip. After struggling for half an hour and nearly giving up, I was able to easily lift up the screen once I tried to wedge it near the headphone jack!

I've been using a metal flat opening tool along with the suction cup to pop these bad boys open - remember the tape on the screen trick if you have a smashed screen - so the suction cup can grip and stops the glass going everywhere! Definitely a difficult step. Make sure not to pry the screen from framing. Also, I kept pushing the power button on while attempting separate the frame. Keep your fingers clear from the top of the phone because having it turn on while the casing is popped is a little nerve racking!

I had trouble with this step too, since I had to apply quite a lot of force on the suction cup when pulling up on the screen while holding down on the frame with my fingernails. Eventually it popped free, but came almost to 90 degrees before I was able to stop it. No damage, but nerve-wracking, and if there was a better technique, it would be good to figure it out and share the information here.

I overdid it and, though the repair was successful, there's now a bit of play when pressing on the top right quadrant of the screen. When i was reassembling, the screen broke form the pressure. I recommend putting the screen towards your working surface and press your phone downwards. That way your screen is always straight. Once there is a gap between the screen and the frame, insert the plastic opening tools and move it around the screen. But don't use it for top area near to power button as there is a location for flexible ribbon cable.

Suction cup is very difficult with a cracked screen. Stick something in the ear jack and carefully push it and the edge of the screen will pop up. Use the plastic stick to open it. I had trouble opening the screen due to a warped suction cup that was bent up at one spot and also due to my cracked screen. I had some command strips, but I think any double-sided tape could work.

I pulled-up on the suction cup, gradually increasing force. Instead of just opening a gap to get the plastic prying tool into, the whole thing gave way at once. This damaged the connection between the display assembly and the rest of the iPhone. Even better, invest in the "iSclack". In my case, it would have saved me about fifty bucks and three days without a functional iPhone. I may have been able to replace only the cables, but I wasn't sure how extensive the damage was and I was done messing around with it. I replaced the whole display assembly, and now it works just fine.

Overall, it was a good experience. This is very difficult, you have to use much more strength than it appears and it's very easy to rip out the connector cords. Mine did not rip, thankfully. Upon replacing the screen, I had to do this 3 times, I would not recommend putting the screws back in but turning on the phone and testing all screens before putting the panel back.

When I finally managed to ensure all displays were working, I was pushing the screen back in and cracked the glass just below the home button. This part is very sensitive as it is the thinnest portion of the glass so be careful and ensure you push from the top and go all the way around.

I also had to do this twice because after cracking the glass on the first try, I also realised the top was not fully pushed back. We highly recommend using the iSclack tool for opening the phone up. It simply pops it up with very little effort, and you won't risk damaging your screen or device. My older phone had a swollen battery, it turns out it had distorted the display assembly enough that the suction cup only separated the screen from the display assembly.

I was in no mood to pay for the special tool and wait for it. Took the "right of headphone jack" suggestion and pushed down vertically at the edge of the frame with a "ice pick" sharp tool, " I had two of them. Who cares if you scratch the frame a little, I usually have my phone in a protective case anyhow.

I kept working with this until the corner was up, and then the rest of the display was loose without any further work. My phone is in pristine condition for a 5 year old phone, I have no cracks to speak of on the glass and the suction cup that ifixit sent me doesn't stick to the glass. Holding the other side top of the phone down with another hand is extremely important. Plenty of people have damaged their screens by pulling the panel right off, ripping all the cables. I made a series of gentle pulls and the front panel came up without problems.

The opening started to appear next to the audio jack, as other people indicated. Then, I used the pry that came with the kit and the panel opened easily. Upon reassembly, I cracked the glass at this step. The top of the screen seemed to have too play in it and on my phone—I suspect from right side brackets that may have been damaged already. Was nearly finished and applied too much pressure?

I pulled and pulled on the suction cup with no results then read the comments! Should have saved the cost of tools. They were very pretty and well packaged though! Good fortune to all that succeeded. And now, after putting it back, the screen is not working. What am I supposed to do? I dont have any other phone in hand and I need to repair it immediately. Could they have fallen out previously because my screen was bulging out from the case? Or did I miss them somewhere? I managed to separate the front panel from the body, but there is yet another metallic looking panel on the body.

The back of the panel still attached to the front part is mirror shiny on the back of that panel. Unfortunately you only separated part of the display panel, try to reseat the display and open it again, paying special attention to step 3 which shows you where you should be prying to get those clips on the metal rail out of the phone body. Non provare a rimuovere completamente il pannello dal telefono poiché ci sono ancora diversi fasci di cavi attacati in cima all'iPhone. Una volta che le clip sono state rimosse ai lati e alla base del cellulare sollevare la parte bassa del pannello frontale e staccarla dal corpo dell'iPhone.

Sollevare lentamente il pannello finché si sarà formato un angolo di 90 gradi fra esso ed il corpo principale. When reinserting the screen, be sure to start from the top and insert the plastic tabs on the screen into the case before advancing the rest of the screen into place, finishing at the bottom. The screen will snap into place once lined up to complete the insertion. This is actually very important, I was having trouble getting the front panel to go on by starting at the top.

I started from the bottom instead and the bottom ended up secure, but not the top. I then tried to take the front panel back off, but because the top portion was already loose the force required to pull off the bottom led to one of the ribbon cables at the top of phone breaking. When reattaching the screen, please start from the top. BEFORE you try to push the bottom of the screen down and snap it in, use some pressure from the bottom edge to push the screen towards the top of the phone. I suggest that by the time you get to the middle of the phone starting from the top , you do this.

It will allow for getting the clips at the bottom by the sync cable clipped in and will sit nicely and allow for you to use overall pressure to make sure the whole screen is secured. I didn't do this and I damaged the seal on the right side of the phone and almost separated my screen from the digitizer trying to reseparate it to reattach the screen.

Be very carefull to follow these steps I listed. If you do this while reattaching the screen, you'll have no problem. I also agree with it being not necessary to remove the complete front panel. I just kept it attached and kept it at an angle as I pulled with gentle, continuous force at a 45 degree angle as suggested on the battery pull tab. It eventually came loose, I set the new battery in and everything works perfectly. That's the way I did it too. I put a piece of packing tape from the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back.

That kept me from putting any pressure on the ribbon cable should the phone slip and the whole screen try to lift away from the backing. Be careful taking the front panel off. I tried to pull it very careful but it ripped. One of the cables was damaged but luckily, it was the cable that goes out with the old front panel. It also ripped 4. I was lucky and recovered it from the floor. While trying to open the phone, I was must've tried a little too much and the screen came off in one shot, and it damaged the ribbon cables.

Come sostituire il tasto di accensione dell'iPhone

Hello guys, I would like to first thank iFixit for these amazing repair guides they have always worked for me! When reassembling the phone make sure to put the screen from top to bottom, but be aware there are 2 small flaps on the top left side of the screen you can notice them using another iphone as a flashlight if you don't put these 2 flaps first then you are going to have a little space between the top part of the screen and the aluminum frame , at least this happened to me and then I inspected the screen using a flashlight and then I found these 2 tiny flaps behind the screen near the top left corner.

Was it just me or did anyone else discover a ribbon cable or something like it on the bottom end of the phone under the home button? It kept me from opening the front panel more than 30 degrees or so, making the replacement impossible. It looks like you might actually have an iPhone 5s, that is probably the Touch ID cable, check out the iPhone 5s Display Assembly replacement here!

What the heck only the top part of the lcd came off, NOT together with the shield plate. I used the stupid islack opener but only the very top layer came up. I don't see the battery or anything underneath because the shield plate is still in there. I can't even put it back closed and resuction it open because the shield plate is solidly stuck in and there is a cable at the top not settling properly.

Occorrente

I have an open lcd top part of this phone. Hi Gabrielle, sorry you're having trouble! This frame step was meant to show you how to avoid that issue, however, you should be able to use it to pry up the frame and shield plate. You'll need to carefully pry the frame itself up. Insert a thin prying tool between the black or white plastic display frame, and the metal phone case, to lift the frame assembly out of the phone body.

If you continue to have trouble, try posting a question in our forum for faster feedback! Hello, I've changed the earphone piece on my iPhone5 following this guide but I've skipped from step 9 directly to step 17 without problem, just shutting down first. Once opened I've tied the iPhone's body vertically to a small box with an elastic ring, the display assembly resting horizontal at some 90 degrees allows enough place to unscrew and replace the earpiece.

My biggest problem is my eyesight. Had to wear glasses and use a magnifying glass. Battery took about 20 minutes. Re-installing the cover for the screen ribbons was the toughest for me. If you cant see I found the suction cup to be very effective in removing the front glass. Didn't take that much force to start to see the glass separate from the frame. It's a lot easier if you have a fingernail you can insert when you start to see the glass separate from the frame so that you can let go of the suction cup ring and grab a spudger to pry down one side and then the other.

When reassembling, be sure to work from the top down to get the screen display in place. There are three hooks at the top that need to be seated otherwise they will bend and prevent the top from popping in flush. Otherwise, great instructions, thanks Ifixit,new iPhone battery is wonderful. Questa vite tende a non farsi attrarre da cacciaviti magnetici. Fate attenzione a non perderla durante la rimozione. Assicurarsi di rimetterla al posto giusto: Anyone have any idea why the 1. Just wondering why this screw seems to be made of aluminum, its the first screw of its kind as far as iphones go.

I'd recommend if they made that clearer in the guide, luckily I put them back in right, its the one with the little bit of blue on it if i recall that isn't magnetic. I just finished this process using the battery replacement kit from ifixit and it went easily.

I did NOT remove the entire screen but rather just had someone hold it at less than a 90 degree angle until I got the battery out. I found it took a while to slowly pry the battery out. Take your time and alternate between gently using the plastic tool and pulling on the plastic pull tab that says "for authorized use only" or something like that. It was MUCH easier than disconnecting the entire screen for the process.

Rule 1 on electronics repair methodology: I'd disconnect the battery before touching anything else, a slip of the screwdriver or a loose screw could cause a fatal short circuit. It's no need to remove front panel to change battery. I just skip to Step 10 and successfully changed battery, and it works well. I skipped steps Mon téléphone a pris l'humidité et présente un fond d'écran d'aspect granuleux.

Du coup l'éclairage n'est plus uniforme, nuisible pour une bonne lecture de l'écran. J'ai démonté l'écran, une pellicule grasse et collante entre le LCD et la plaque métallique. J'ai nettoyé à l'alcool. Tout remonter avec la crainte que le téléphone ne fonctionne plus. Le téléphone s'est rallumé, tout fonctionne normalement mais j'ai toujours ses traces sur le fond d'écran.

Il faut le changer! This makes the plate kind of springy, and my screwdirver slipped, and the screw popped up, spun in the air, fell between my legs, bounced off my padded chair, and clattered around on the floor. I searched for an hour, and could not locate it. This being the case, I WAS able to provide a substitute fron a bag of iphone 4 screws, and my compass calibrated flawlessly upon power-up. Be warned, the 1. I haven't been able to get it out yet already tried rubber band trick and a few others and am on the verge of giving up.

The 00 screwdriver that comes with the set did not do a very good job of catching. Were you ever able to get it out? Mine seemed stripped from the get go, rendering my attempt to troubleshoot my blank screen fruitless. Rubber band, glue, flat-head all did not work for me. Buying a soldering iron tomorrow to try that. I did the repair without disconnecting the screen. I skipped down to step 13 and carefully held the screen while removing the battery.

Adds a small element difficulty, but helps prevent all the issues others are having when reconnecting the screen. Install the two magnetized screws first. They are easy because the magnetized screws will stick to then end of the screwdriver. They will hold the cable bracket in place. Place the third, non-magnetized, screw on the center of the cable bracket. Take a toothpick and nudge the screw toward the screw hole. The threaded part of the screw the shaft has enough weight that it will fall into the hole, and the head of the screw will be pointed upward.

You will then be able to use the screwdriver. Put a piece of tape on the table sticky side up. Set the screw on the tape head down. The tape trick works well. Another way is to dip the screwdriver in alcohol isopropanol, do NOT use water and put the screw on its tip. It will be held there until the liquid is evaporated, which should be sufficient to put it in place.

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When putting it back together, I replugged in all three of the ribbon cables and powered on the phone to test before putting everything back together. All was OK except for the Home button, it had no effect when pressed. I ended up unplugging and replugging the 3 ribbon cables a few times and retrying.

I then cleaned the connectors using a can of compressed air, screwed the little silver cover back on and snapped the whole phone back together, hoping everything would be fine. I don't know if the problem was a dirty connector, or if you need to close the phone to make the home button work again. I recommend wiping the plastic prying tool after lifting the screen off, it gets dirty from the gunk build up and some of that could eventually fall inside the phone.

My battery was really stuck, so much that the plastic tab broke when pulling. I followed someones advice to heat the back of the phone with a hair dryer, still wasn't super easy but I managed to get the battery out, only deforming it slightly. The contacts for the home button are on the phone base so the screen needs to be in place for the button to work.. Step are totally unnecessary unless you need to replace a broken screen. All you need is to keep the front panel in a vertical position once the front is open.

The battery can be removed without taken out the 3 connectors which by the way the screws are very very tiny and difficult to put back. These are unnecessary steps. Might be a little easier to pry the battery out with the display completely off, but not enough to make it worthwhile IMHO.

I have a small set and can't get one of these out. The instructions say a 1. So as long as you have a you should be set! Invest in and use some colored Sharpie Pens I color the tops of the screws orange and red etc. Then when I go to put them back in there's no doubt as to which screw is the correct size. Maybe a small amount of loctite.

I noticed the P2 screws holding the display down had a small amount on my iPhone 5. I, too, do not see the need to remove the LCD display at all; except, when one is replacing a broken display. The battery is ready for replacement once you had removed its bracket. I found that it wasn't at all necessary to remove the front glass. I did need to use a hair dryer to soften the glue holding the battery, but I simply laid the phone down on the face glass and blew the hot dryer on the back for a couple of minutes at almost point blank range. Then I simply held the phone open with one hand, making sure the front glass never went back more than about 80 degrees no need to stretch it all the way to 90 degrees , and used my other hand to work the spudger around the battery, making sure not to touch any delicate electronics in the area.

The top right corner gave away first and then I worked it down from there and the battery came out pretty easily. The trick is to use the hair dryer for a few minutes beyond the phone being too hot to hold in your hand! The battery of my iPhone 5 was working well but started to inflate pushing the front panel assembly out from the case. Replacing is faster and easier than on iPhone 5s.

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Thanks to iFixit for this guides and you guys for your comments. As other people already indicated, steps 13 to 16 are not needed and risky. I asked another person to hold the front panel at 70 degrees while changing the battery. Per assicurare un'installazione corretta, assicuratevi di attaccare i piccoli uncini del supporto, sotto e poi piu in basso verso l'esterno del telefono.

My iPhone 5 model don't has this bracket and replacing the earpiece don't fix my problem don't hear anyone. You might check that front camera flex cable. Great Guide, Any idea what else could be wrong if Ive replaced the screen with a working 1 and the phone still has no display? When you reverse step 7, make sure you clip the little hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone.

If you don't, the phone won't snap back together properly. I've misplaced this metal plate AND the three screws and two pentalobe screws. I think my wife threw out the ziplock I had them in. Any chance you can tell me where to get them? Don't forget to clip this in flush, my phone couldn't get a cell signal when it was slightly out-of-place. Remember to put this plate back such that it's sitting evenly. The side towards the battery some times tends to stick up a bit, this in turn will put pressure on the backplate of the screen.

Open up the phone, remove that retention plate and put it back such that it sits properly! Opened my iPhone 5 etc. When reassembling, I notice the screen doesn't stay clipped into the back tray and is raised a couple of mils. I really wonder about the wisdom, and risk, of removing this upper plate in step 14 - unless I missed it, those three cables are NOT connected to the battery in anyway - and the chances for stuffing up said cables re-assembly are moderate to high!

Much less stress regarding the upper bracket and the three cables while only a bit more stress over releasing the battery from its sticky grip! Anywho, I might have to stand corrected - but next time I'll go for this abreviated method. Just carefully remove the battery and insert the new one. Make sure to read all the comments before doing each step even when you r reassembling. I confirm the previous post! I think that lots of problem may occur when you reassemble the front panel cables.

I also made the mistake of trying to remove the cable bracket. Once again I had to resort to another screwdriver since the included in the battery kit did not work on these. Can I leave the bracket out? Does it have any shielding or antenna function? I agree, it is not necessary to remove this cover or the cables underneath. I had the battery changed in less than 10 minutes.

Durante il riassemblaggio del cellulare, il cavo LCD potrebbe staccarsi dal connettore. Questo potrebbe far apparire delle linee bianche o semplicemente niente quando il telefono sarà riacceso. Il modo migliore per creare un ciclo di alimentazione nel telefono è staccando e riattacando la batteria. The part itfixit sent only has two cables: And the guide is great! After replacing the screen I was presented with a no image screen but backlight was ok , so I refited the shartered one, same issue, no image, but backlight. Be very careful here, at this point the phone power is live! This is a troublesome step, since the LCD connector is particularly difficult to reconnect, and know that you've gotten it on.

And thanks to the note claiming that if it's disconnected, if you might just get a black screen, you're left with having to disassemble the entire unit again, without knowing if it's powered off since you presumably tried to power on. I had this problem and disassembled and reassembled the entire phone, only to have the problem again.

On the second try, I plugged the phone into power, and after a little bit, got the dead battery screen showing. So the problem was that the battery was discharged, not that I'd biffed the LCD connector. The hint to disconnect the battery was very useful for my successful repair. After rebooting the phone everything was working just fine. Take a good look at that camera loosely sitting there. It is possible that it will be slightly offset when shutting the assembly back into place. This causes it to not properly focus on closeups.

If you don't move it around you will probably be okay. Also, look at the display assembly, it has three small locking tabs that can bend easily if not pushed in at the right angle into the iPhone frame. Be careful not to be too forceful.

I am having issues removing the white lines on my screen. I made sure to connect the digitiizer connector was seated all the way and I also power cycled my phone several times. Anyone else having this issue?

When I was reassembling this the front facing camera cable was a bit longer than the previous one. I had to kink the ribbon cable a bit to get the connection to line up. Everything seems to be working but I wanted to note that the part might be slightly off spec.

I am very satisfied with the replacement display assembly including FaceTime camera and Home button iFixit sent. It arrived a day early, fit perfectly, and has fixed the color banding, cracked screen, and scratched edges very well. In addition, the home button now has a much crisper "click" to it, more like the new MacBook's keys vs those of an older MacBook Pro. This step is not needed to remove the battery and complicates the process by having to reconnect the sensors. When I started the phone again, there was a grid pattern and touch was not working consistently.

It turns out there were two separate problems. I had this problem too not the oil though. When I first restarted the phone, I had white crosses over the display, and the digitiser didn't work. Hope this info helps others.

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In the image you can see the camera has lifted out a bit. Mine did this too, because the old screen had levered it out. To push the camera back into position you need to insert a fine tool behind a small metal spring contact because it catches on the camera's casing otherwise. This little spring is to the left of the metal case, between the camera and ribbon.

Pls confirm if the three photos in Step 15 only show removal of 2 of the 3 connectors mentioned in the instruction and colored bullets. I could not tell which was the third one to remove in the three photos. So I keep getting the "white lines on the LCD" bit with no resolution. I've tried reconnecting the connector like 6 times and power cycling and I get the exact same thing every time?

Is it possible that the replacement screen has an issue? May I ask what the 4th little connector is that comes from under your battery and connects to the board mine came undone during repair and won't go back in. Watch the soft pad between the rear camera enclosing and the top side of the frame, especially when reassembling. After replacing the battery, my camera pictures gradually showed lots of dust spots. I opened the device again and discovered that the pad had been displaced. However, I am not fully sure if that is the reason for the spots.

On reinstall, I can't get the connectors to line up and the replacement screen has 3 connectors where as my busted screen had only 2. The cables on the replacement screen are too short? Is that even possible? Removing the screen cables causes more problems- you may end up with white squares on the top of the screen which seem to expand over time.

Also it is very easy to bend little metal legs on the socket when prying the connector. It is very important to make sure the cables are fully seated. When I finish assembling the phone I too had a vertical white stripe on the display. I disassembled the phone and reconnected the cables very carefully, and also made sure the shield was properly seated. When I turned the phone back on I found a very faint white line, but after doing a power cycle it disappeared to my great relief.

Anyone else have this problem? Also, when the battery was too low and before the display produced vertical lines the display showed half of a low battery symbol:. On reinstalling the front panel assembly, I had a difficult time lining up the digitizer cable. After struggling with it for a while, I noticed that the plastic shoulders of the small mounting bracket at the ends of the pins had become rounded over. After cleaning these up with a razor blade, everything slid together perfectly. Thanks so much for these guides and all the helpful comments!

I have done all these operations 6 times to get back a good displaying. The last was the last: I clicked OK but nothing more. Still black and quiet. I found the part who was deffective: My display was not turning on and my home button was not working I verified this by trying to activate siri which didn't work. When I replaced the display assembly everything works except for the home button. Since this assembly comes with the button and the ribbon cable, I'm not sure what else can be wrong.

I checked the contacts on the phone and I see the little copper 'pins' sticking out. I can't tell if they are making contact since the display has to be closed, but it appears they are lined up correctly. Does anyone have any suggestions or ways to test the contact pins? Could the home button on my replacement be defective? I've already emailed support, but just curious if anyone has any suggestions I could try while waiting to hear back from them.

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I can now back up my phone and can probably deal with a broken home button if I need to. I'm having issues where the screen jumps around when you get a finger near it. I'm reading it might be grounding but no idea where any tape could be applied. Replaced the screen twice thinking it was a bad part.

Now, I just don't know. My front camera does not work. I took apart and ensured the connection several, several , several times Tira la linguetta sporgente in plastica trasparente per staccare la batteria dall'adesivo che la fissa alla iPhone. Se hai problemi nello staccare la batteria, usa un iOpener o un asciugacapelli per riscaldare il case posteriore dell'iPhone e ammorbidire l'adesivo. Se la linguetta si rompe prima di aver liberato la batteria, segui i passi successivi.

The Guide misses the Point, where the Battery is disconnected, between steps 12 and 13 German version. You will see two little white gums strips with black tap on bottom. You have to pull up those two strip so battery will come out very easily. After struggling for awhile, I followed the hair-dryer tip and prying in the empty space on the case side of the battery just below the volume buttons as suggested in one of tips in step Don't understand the advice in the video about the only safe places to pry.

They completely contradict step 19! Agreed on the note about the contradiction. Didn't understand that either, but makes more sense to pry along the outside of the case where you're less likely to damage any internal components. That tab broke pretty easy on me. Seems like I am taking a lot apart to get to the lightning connector. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip!

I was very surprised by how much heat I needed to apply to loosen the glue. I used a blow dryer and then heated up a rice-filled pillow-thing I use for sore muscles.

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I put that inside a plastic bag to avoid the moisture and pried while phone sat on that. It was hotter than I would normally make it for muscles! But that did the trick.